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myhobby-CNC - Kunden Supportforum

ShapeOko Build log and (un)answered questions:
 1
21.01.15 17:16
bbdn00 
ShapeOko Build log and (un)answered questions:

A week ago I bought a ShapeOko 2 Komplett-kit at Myhobby-Cnc.de. Being a Cnc noob this was quite a challenge for me but I have some Arduino and electronics experience so I was up for the challenge.

These were the things that were unclear/difficult for me:

As stated on the Myhobby Wiki there are 8 differences with the original, most of them are improvements. Following the original installation instructions from docs.shapeoko.com and the Inventibles works kit installation YouTube video everything started out fine. Sometimes it was difficult to find out what these differences actually were since I had to translate everything from German.

Soldering, soldering, soldering. Depending on your soldering skills be prepared for a couple of hours soldering wires and boards. I often had to tin the ends of wires in order for them to fit into the screw terminals.

Power supply. Is not supplied as is the 24v switching power supply as shown on the pictures but you will receive a Toshiba 19v laptop power supply instead. Ronald stated it was because of safety concerns and so far I have not had problems with it.

Wiring. Being inexperienced with nema stepper motors I had to look up how to wire the stepper motors to the GRBL shield. After I found the right order (see picture) there was still a problem. The reversed Y axis still was not “reversed” and the bridge travelled in opposite direction. Turned out I had to switch two wires for the reversed Y (A) axis.

Communication software: GRBL controller. Using the recommended settings from the Myhobby Wiki work great. I would have loved to use Inventible’s Easel but this software does not allow you to alter the settings (or do they??)

Z-Axis!!!! My block was waaay to tight and the threaded rod was not completely vertical. Adding some extra precision washers made the rod more vertical, but the Z axis movement still did not happen. After running the block up and down many times with a power drill and greasing the rod like a madman, still no movement! This remains an unsolved issue and in the meanwhile I ordered a replacement block from amberspyglass UK and still waiting for Ronald to respond.

Conclusion

I ran some Hello World sharpie tests with GRBL controller and the accuracy seems great. The test had to be done with no moving Z axis so there were some unwanted lines inbetween the letters.

Overall I am very satisfied with the quality and service of Myhobby-cnc and would recommend everyone in Europe to buy their kit here. It is very convenient to choose your own dimensions and the shipping costs are fair too.

As soon as the Z-axis issue is solved I will also post my findings on the original Shapeoko forums

22.01.15 13:22
bbdn00 
Re: ShapeOko Build log and (un)answered questions:

** UPDATE **

Z-Axis is working now. After running it up and down a couple dozen times and adding one more precision washer (now a total of 4 washers) to the z axis plate the Z axis finally came to its senses and that makes the Shapeoko finally operational.

Also I found out that Easel has a G-code export function, the advantage of this program is that it does not make the GRBL shield's lines overflow. The initial tests were successful.

22.01.15 16:04
Ronald 

Moderator

Re: ShapeOko Build log and (un)answered questions:

Hello,

unfortunately, I can not see your name, so I can not say what I have already answered by email. As for the Z axis, so this is certainly the most vulnerable part of the router.

I have identified the following common mistakes during Support:

  • The carriage of the Z-axis is assembled incorrectly. (see: http://www.myhobby-cnc.de/wiki/doku.php?...ens_der_z-achse)
  • In the bearing shells of the Z-axis plates were remnants of milling.
  • The plates of the Z-axis were attached too tightly with M5x20 screws together.
  • The thread block is still too new and therefore too tight.

Especially the last two errors are not so easy to recognize.
The thread block must, as you have done, run a while so that the nut and rod fit each other.
The Z-axis has a very high gear, you could also go for the engine to full steps here. In full step mode, the engine has a higher torque and power.

Kind reagrds
Ronald

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